Cut the two roof sections to the sizes indicated. Arrange both roof sections on the birdhouse, centering them front to back. As indicated in the drawings, overlap the 7 1/4″ section over the end of the 6 1/2″ section so that the overhangs on both sides match. The birdhouse should be fastened to the 7 1/4″ roof section using 16 gauge galvanized finish nails or screws.
Wrens are not particularly afraid of humans. It appears that they nearly always choose to build their nests in nesting boxes nearer to people’s residences than farther away. In my area, there are three different species of wrens: the House, Bewicks, and Carolina. Each clutch contains between five and eight eggs, and each season produces two broods.
In order to prepare each of my nestboxes for a new occupant in the spring, I empty them out in the middle of winter. When I empty my nestboxes and find that wasps have also taken up residence there, I don’t find it shocking. Take caution when opening your birdhouse so as not to aggravate any stinging residents. I avoid using wasp spray because I don’t want any toxic materials inside the birdhouse. I use a broom handle to destroy the nest when the wasps fly away, keeping an eye on them the entire time because you never know when they might return.
Attaching a wire loop to the top of the roof so that it can hang from a tree or post is the final step in building the wren birdhouse. For this, I combined eye bolts with wound wire. I screwed the eye bolts into the top of the 7 1/4″ section of the roof by drilling two pilot holes for them about 3″ apart (centered on the birdhouse).
I painted the outside of the birdhouse and left the interior unpainted, as you can see in the photos above. Choose a natural or light color to reflect sunlight rather than a dark color that absorbs heat if you intend to paint your wren birdhouse. Additionally, use eco-friendly paints that have low to no volatile organic compounds (VOCs).
FAQ
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