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NORMAL BEHAVIOR AND INTERACTION:

Since birds prefer to live in flocks, they get along well with other birds in the house and can communicate with them. But you and your family also join the flock of your bird. While having multiple birds—not all of them in the same cage—is a lovely thing, it’s not a requirement for a parrot species to live happily in a household. Parrots are extremely intelligent animals. Their small heads and brains allow them to understand, “speak” in context, and engage in reasonable interactions with their human flocks. It’s crucial for parrot owners to work with their intelligent companion on a regular basis. They are highly dependent on this interaction due to their intelligence. Neglected parrots frequently develop into “problem birds,” displaying their annoyance through actions like biting, yelling, or feather plucking (though feather plucking may also be the result of a physical issue). These behaviors are not necessarily irreversible. It is never wise to buy or adopt a parrot based only on its capacity to mimic and “speak.” All birds are worthy of the work required for appropriate training. Since each bird is unique, there’s no assurance your new bird will have these skills. But each and every bird, with their unique set of abilities, has the capacity to captivate your heart and love you without conditions. They also deserve your love and attention in return. Some parrots often get labeled as “one person birds”. While this may appear to be the case at times, many household members who work together can have positive relationships with the family bird. Since birds in the wild mate for life, it makes sense that they would choose one person to be their closest companion in the house as well. Those who interact with birds with care and confidence will often receive more “respect” in return. Therefore, if every member of the “flock” treats your feathered friend with the same level of attention, there’s a higher likelihood that they will all gain from having a close relationship with him or her. Go slowly with any new pet, but especially with parrots. As sophisticated prey animals, they can be extremely wary and circumspect, but with enough persistent patience, they can also be won over. Show them that you are trustworthy and that you have a lifelong friend. Each parrot, even those of the same species, has a unique personality. While some parrots are quiet and reserved, others are gregarious and outgoing. Your pet will grow more at ease and exhibit more of their unique personality the more you work with them. Adopt your parrot with an open mind, just like you would with a child, and see what the bird may become. Remember that acquiring a parrot is a long-term commitment. Your parrot could live for 15 to 60 years, depending on the species! Pay great attention to your parrot’s body language! Ruffled feathers can mean an aggravated parrot. A parrot can also purposefully “pin” his eyes, or constrict them, in response to anger or excitement. When a parrot feels threatened, agitated, or angry, they will puff up their feathers, crouch down lower than usual, and rock back and forth on their feet in an attempt to appear bigger and more menacing. Respect this posture and give your parrot some space. When you and your parrot become acquainted, you will learn about her preferences and dislikes. He or she will take on preferences for certain foods, games, pastimes, tunes, and even TV series. Your parrot might pick up on the sound of your arrival and start chirping joyfully as soon as you walk through the door. Some people never expect such a wonderful and rewarding relationship from a bird, but having a parrot can be a wonderful experience indeed!

Lovebirds are intelligent, sweet family birds. Whether they live alone or in a pair, they will get along well in a house with a big family or just one person. If they are a bonded pair, though, they won’t be as interested in interacting and developing a relationship with you. Lovebirds have enormous personalities and will delight the whole family. They are giant parrots in little parrot bodies. They are curious, active and feisty. For their size, they are extremely bold and strong willed. They can “talk”, although they do not have extensive vocabularies.

Lovebirds do not survive on seed alone! New research on companion bird diets has shown that diets based solely on seeds can be very harmful. A diet limited to seeds can lead to nutritional deficiencies and conditions like liver, kidney, obesity, and heart disease, all of which can significantly reduce your pet’s life expectancy. Seed is very limited in nutrients, vitamins and minerals. Since birds only eat the inside of most seeds and leave the outside “hull” behind, even the most recent “fortified” seed diets available are still insufficient. As a result, the bird never fully consumes the seed’s beneficial nutrient coating. A high-quality pellet diet is necessary for lovebirds to grow healthily. Since seeds should only be a small portion of a diet, they should be paired with other foods. Pet Supplies Plus offers pellet diets that are specially designed to cater to the unique requirements of your bird, effectively fulfilling most of its nutritional requirements. Fresh fruits, grains, and veggies (especially leafy greens) should be given to your bird as often as tolerated. Please refer to our sheet, which lists the fresh foods that your pet will love. Never give chocolate, sugar, fried food, avocado, or junk food to your sweetie. REMEMBER: Make sure to dispose of any fresh food that hasn’t been consumed in a day.

If you are feeding your lovebird properly, calcium should be the only supplement you need. Typically, calcium is given to birds in the form of cuttlebones or treats that attach to the inside of their cages. If you observe that your bird is not eating his calcium treat or cuttlebone, you can add a powdered supplement, like packaged oyster shell, straight to your pet’s food. Follow the directions on the supplement package.

• The bird needs to be exposed to UVB light for at least three to four hours a day, or more or less depending on the species, for the best physiologic utilization of the calcium you are feeding it. For more details on UVB light, please refer to our handout, UVB Lighting for Companion Birds and Reptiles.

Your bird needs access to fresh water at all times. Your pet will frequently even take a bath in his water, so it needs to be checked and changed multiple times a day. It is advised to use a paper towel to wipe the bowl clean after each use in order to avoid a slimy film from building up inside the bowl. This “slime” contains bacteria that could be harmful to your bird. At least once a day, give the bowl a thorough cleaning with water and a mild dishwashing detergent.

Every drop of water provided to birds for drinking, as well as any water used for misting, soaking, or bathing, has to be 100% free of heavy metals and chlorine. It is not the case that all home water filtration systems eliminate all of the heavy metals and chlorine from tap water. It is advised that you use either bottled natural spring water or unflavored drinking water; never use untreated tap water. If using tap water, make sure to use a de-chlorinating treatment. A container of tap water left open for at least 24 hours can be used to remove the chlorine from the water without using a chemical dechlorinator. The chlorine will naturally dissipate. Avoid using distilled water as it lacks minerals necessary for vital bodily processes and can lead to serious health issues.

Lovebirds need a clean, warm, mentally stimulating environment. A cage for a lone bird should measure at least 18″ by 18″ by 18″. Two birds should have a cage measuring at least 18”x18”x18”. As a general rule, larger is better when it comes to lovebirds because they are energetic and like to fly back and forth. When choosing a cage, keep in mind that birds fly horizontally, not vertically like a helicopter. The cage’s bars should be spaced no more than 3/8 inch to ½ inch apart. Your crafty bird is likely to attempt to squeeze through the bars if they are too far apart, only to become stuck. The bird(s) should feel like they are a part of the “flock” in a family-oriented room where the cage is placed; however, the back of the cage should be positioned against a wall to provide security. If your lovebird is in direct traffic, it will feel anxious and threatened. Steer clear of drafty spots and locations that will receive excessive amounts of direct sunlight during the day. When your bird is outside of his cage, make sure all ceiling fans are turned off. The kitchen should not be where your bird’s cage is kept because cooking vapors and even a tiny bit of smoke can be deadly. Your bird will thrive in an average room temperature of no more than 80 degrees. Air conditioning drafts should be avoided, especially when bathing and misting The cage should have a variety of materials and types of perches. We recommend having at least three different types. Having a variety will help the feet get exercise, avoid sores, and prevent health problems related to the feet. See the recommended supplies section. There should be a minimum of three spotless bowls available for use: one for fresh water, one for seeds or pellets, and one for fresh food. Your bird may appreciate a cage cover for nighttime. By blocking out any unnecessary light, the cover can make the sleeping area more secure. Take care not to use any materials for your cover that your bird could snag on his beak or claws, or that he could yank strings off and consume.

• DO NOT USE SANDPAPER COVERED PERCHES OR FLOOR PAPER. These products pose a serious risk and have the potential to seriously harm your bird’s feet.
• ALSO, DO NOT USE “BIRD DISKS” or “MITE DISKS”. THESE ARE NOT EFFECTIVE AND MAY HARM YOUR BIRD. SEE YOUR AVIAN VETERINARIAN IF YOU SUSPECT PARASITES.
• DO NOT USE BIRD GRAVEL. Birds that do not crack the shell or hull of the seeds they eat are fed bird gravel. The purpose of this is to grind the seeds in the bird’s crop. BIRD GRAVEL IS SUITABLE FOR DOVES AND PIGEONS, BUT NOT AT ALL FOR CANARIES, PARAKEETS, OR ANY OTHER SPECIES OF PARROT, AS THEY WILL CRUSH THE SEED OR NUTS PRIOR TO INGESTING THEM. Other than ducks and pigeons, gravel can pose a serious threat to birds because it can cause severe impacts that are frequently fatal.
• Corn cob bedding has the potential to quickly breed mold and mildew, endangering your bird. BIRDS CAN ALSO BECOME IMPACTED FROM SWALLOWING CORN COB BEDDING.

In the wild, birds forage for food for the majority of the day, from dawn until dusk. Since their food is always available to them in their cages in our homes, they never have to go hunting, which makes it very simple for our pet birds to get bored and lethargic. Being confined to a cage with nothing to do is a terrible punishment for these intelligent animals. Your lovebird should have access to at least three different kinds of toys in his cage at all times because “enrichment” will keep his mind occupied. Lovebirds enjoy shiny, wooden, rope, foraging, and plastic toys. Buying toys designed exclusively for birds is crucial because their materials and construction are far more likely to be safe. Lead and zinc are two examples of harmful metals that can poison birds. They may also swallow tiny fragments of shoddy-made “toys” that they chew off, which can naturally result in a number of health issues. Be sure to include “foraging” toys. These playthings imitate the efforts that a bird could make to obtain food in the wild. There are various kinds of “play places” available for safe playtime outside of cages. You can hide treats in cardboard tubes and balled-up paper or buy plastic puzzle toys, which make your pet work for his treats! If it’s portable, your bird can interact with you in various rooms (just not the kitchen!).

• Clean, rust-free square or rectangular metal cage. A minimum of 18 by 18 by 18, with a bar spacing of no more than 3/8 to ½ inch
• a minimum of three distinct perches, such as a wood dowel, a natural branch type, a cement perch, or a therapeutic perch
• a sufficient amount of packaged pellet food to combine with seed You can gradually transition your bird to eating mostly pellets and fresh food as time goes on.
• At least 3 different toys. If you buy more than three, you can switch them around in the cage to keep your parakeet from getting bored.
• Calcium supplement such as cuttlebone, calcium treat or oyster shell.
• Nutrient-dense “berry balls,” millet spray, and foraging box treats are examples of treats. Avoid sugary treats like honey sticks.
• 3 sturdy dishes. Three: one each for fresh food, pellet/seed mix, and fresh water
• Misting bottle and bird-bath.
• A good species-specific book about your lovebird.
• Lovebirds often enjoy a swing to perch on.
• Nail clipper & styptic powder. REMEMBER: ONLY use nails on your bird’s skin—never use styptic powder!
• A bird safe cage cover. Use caution when using blankets and towels from home as they may trap bird entrails and beaks in their fibers or overheat the space.
• Fluorescent UVB Bulb and housing.

Every day, you should inspect your lovebird’s cage to make sure there is no dirt your bird can get into. To avoid health issues, waste and rotting food should be regularly cleaned off of perches, cups, and cage bars. Cage paper can be changed every other day or so; it should be kept under a floor grate to keep droppings out of the way. Examine the metal components.

• a weak dilution of a mild dishwashing liquid in warm water, THEN
• Vinegar & water (1:8) OR bleach and warm water (1:32)
• The same dilution should be used to clean the cage “furniture.”
• USE PLAIN WATER TO THOROUGHLY RINSE OFF ALL SOAP AND BLEACH PRIOR TO RE-INTRODUCING YOUR PET TO ITS ENCLOSURE!
• Never combine vinegar with bleach—this will result in a toxic mixture.

A water bottle intended just for this purpose should be used to lightly mist every bird. To simulate a light rain, misty, room-temperature spray should be applied up and over the bird. NEVER spray the bird directly in the face. Your bird should be provided with a room temperature birdbath at least twice a week in addition to misting. When your bird is done bathing, remove the bath and keep an eye on him. Make sure there are no drafts during the misting and bathing processes that could cause your bird to become chilled and have respiratory problems when he gets wet. Get in touch with your avian veterinarian if your bird appears to stop grooming itself and starts to look messy and disheveled. He may be ill.

Make sure to regularly get your bird’s nails and wings clipped by taking it to your avian veterinarian.

It is also strongly advised to have your bird examined by an avian veterinarian for an annual examination to ensure your pet remains healthy. IF PROBLEMS ARISE, CALL YOUR AVIAN VETERINARIAN IMMEDIATELY! Birds are good at hiding illnesses, so yearly exams can identify minor problems before they worsen.

• Fluffed feathers, missing patches of feathers, feathers being purposely plucked.
• Evidence that your bird has stopped grooming him/herself.
• The bird appears puffed up and is sitting motionless on its perch, its wings drooping; it may also remain at the bottom of the cage.
• Beak swelling or unusual marks on cere.
• Nasal discharge, eye discharge, wheezing or coughing.
• Any change in stools including color or consistency.
• Loss of appetite.
• One foot being preferred, one wing being held differently, and any blood present

©2012 Dawn M. Trainor / revised on November 11, 2013; provided by Specialized Care for Avian buffalobirdnerd. com.

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